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Light Fantastic OVER the past two years or so, bistros have been springing up all over our island. Even top-end restaurants such as Marmalade and Les Amis got in the act and opened more casual spin-offs - Marmalade Pantry and The Canteen, respectively. Another high-profile bistro is the Aussie-inspired Whitebait & Kale. While the prices are not exactly low (soups and desserts start at $10+++) and there are no starched tablecloths or Wedgewood crockery to dine off, the halfyear- old bistro still draws the crowds, even on weekdays. Part of its appeal lies in its stylish yet unstuffy ambience, and its team of savvy waitstaff who communicate well and remembers faces. The modern-Australian menu, unfussy with loads of fresh flavours, is another draw. But some diners may question dismissively: Why pay $38+++ for a steak at a caf? But Whitebait executive chef Bright San, 35, would counter the criticism, maintaining that it is a misconception that bistro food is inferior to that at restaurants.
The standard of the bistro, he added, rests a lot on the chef's efforts in sourcing for the freshest and best ingredients while keeping to a tight budget. Also, the menu should feature straightforward cooking techniques. This way, diners will be able to enjoy good food, cooked simply, at (hopefully) not-too-exorbitant prices. "Bistros experience greater volume of diners, hence the dishes offered has to be practical, not so complicated. So more pan-frying, grills, steaming, baking and braising," he said. Restaurants, on the other hand, have the luxury of more high-brow and laborious cooking methods such as slow-cooking, low-heat confit-type dishes. San explained his culinary direction for Whitebait: " “I'm trying not to complicate flavours on the palate. Less is more." His aspirations are exemplified in the bistro's new dishes, particularly the Greek salad with lamb salami ($14+++) - proof of how a simple dish, when done right, can be truly stunning. The romaine lettuce was super-crisp, as were the chopped cucumber and capsicum. Delicious cubes of house-made lamb salami - neither too salty nor strongly lamb-scented - and a smidgen of light dressing were all that were needed to set the salad off. I would be happy having just this and the house-made bread for a lunch. The lightness and clarity of flavours also come through in the olive-green asparagus soup with a dollop of truffle cream, and the stuffed baked baby barramundi ($26+++). The chef pointed out that milk, not cream, is blended together with the vegetable and stock, hence resulting in the asparagus flavour peeking through a light milky broth. The whole fish was oven-baked for seven minutes, perfectly timed so that its flesh remained moist and tender. Leave some room for the new desserts on the menu, including green tea creme brulee paired with a refreshing adzuki red bean sorbet (somewhat like ice-kacang!), as well as the chocolate bread and butter pudding which was surprising light on the throat. Don't miss its special set menus for Christmas and New Year, which assistant manager Lynn Cheng said are strikingly different and more elaborate. Priced at $85+++ and $95+++ respectively, they feature dishes such as shiitake mushroom ravioli with bay bugs, and southern clams and broad bean broth, for Christmas, and crabmeat and pear timbale with ham-pistachio mousse & Servuga caviar, and duck leg confit, grilled Portobello mushroom and glazed foie gras & pomegranate relish, with champagne, for New Year. Whitebait & Kale is located at One Orchard Boulevard,
Camden Centre #01-01/03. Tel: 6333-8697. UOB Dining Privileges |
"Bistro
food is not necessarily lower grade. Maybe the food presentation
is not as refined, but you can find good cooking at solid bistros,"
said San, who has worked under Michelin-starred chefs and helmed
various fine-dining establishments such as Salut and Oceana (both
now defunct).