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Singaporean English Charm IT moved to Holland Village early but the only thing that has changed Fosters is the location. Its English Rose Cafe features the food and decor since it started in 1957. Its menu is similar to the sprinkling of old-style Western restaurants that in Singapore, such as The Ship and Berkeley restaurant at Sloane Court Hotel, and it reeks of nostalgia. The steaks are served straight up with boiled potatoes and vegetables. There are also traditional favourites such as escargot in garlic and French onion soup. Those looking for hipper flavours and dishes would be disappointed, for there is nothing ground-breaking to be found here. But for those who have religiously gone to Fosters through the ages, this is a plus point, especially as itd standard has remained consistent through its four decades, even after chef Wong Loke Thin, 86, handed over the reins to his son, William, 35. I tried the Fosters specialities that diners have raved about over the years - the fillet fantastique, the Devonshire cream tea, the steak and mushroom pie and standard fish and chips. The fillet fantastique is a well-cooked piece of steak, but at $36, is pricey, and equivalent to a dish at a good gourmet restaurant. For better value for money, go for the fish and chips ($18) or steak and mushroom pie, which is a reasonable $17. There is nothing that can be faulted. The fish is nicely battered and fried and the tartar sauce is, for once, not too sweet. The pie had soft, moist pieces of steak and a nice full-flavoured sauce. The Devonshire cream tea, which is popular among Singaporeans, is indeed the best thing there. For $9, you can have scones with strawberry preserve, a cup of tea and finger sandwiches. The scones are heavenly as they are fluffy on the inside and are capped with a tasty crumbly crust. Only served between 3pm and 6pm, it is no surprise that Fosters is packed with Singaporean families engaging in the ageold tradition of having tea. Overall, a meal at Fosters costs the same as a meal at a gourmet restaurant such as Da Paolo’s. Is old-world English Charm is worth paying as much for as modern Italian chic? You decide. But whatever your opinion, the restaurant’s presence in Holland Village is to me, a refuge of sorts. Tucked away in a corner of the village, it is a slice of real Singapore as compared to the rest of the area, which tend to have restaurants that are a little too polished and commercialised, packaged with a “cool concept” and the latest trend. In contrast, Fosters is patronised almost entirely by locals, many of whom have gone there time and time again. When I was there, there was a couple having a champagne lunch - celebrating their 10th anniversary at the place where they had had their very first date. None of the trendy restaurants in Holland Village can claim that kind of tradition and history. What you will see in Fosters is not just old world English charm, but how Singaporeans have taken that charm and made it comfortably and distinctly Singaporean. Fosters English Rose Cafe is at 227 Holland Avenue.
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