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             For Ladies Who Lunch  
              By Sharon Soh  
              UOB Ala Carte Series 
              Easy Streats Weekender, 19 Jun 2003 
            EVEN in bad times, we girls need a little pampering 
              to get our endorphins going and make ourselves feel good.  
            Handcrafted chocolates, massages and champagne are 
              usually high on the list.  
            Now, add one more worthy indulgence: Ladies' Kaiseki 
              at Restaurant Suntory. 
             Since its reopening at Hotel Inter-Continental (it 
              was formerly at Delfi Orchard), the restaurant has been drawing 
              a consistent stream of diners to its welcoming and stylishly unfinished-looking 
              interior, fashioned out of Japanese wood, bamboo and stone.  
            The Ladies' Kaiseki menu, available for lunch daily, 
              has been a hit since it was first introduced over a year ago. 
             It isn't difficult to see why. Despite a reputation 
              for being expensive, Suntory has priced the menu at $38+++ a person. 
             
            You get eight courses - including appetiser, soup, 
              sashimi, simmered dish and sushi.  
            They are so beautifully presented that you would think 
              they had just fluttered out from the pages of Gourmet Traveller. 
             
            Also, no run-of-the-mill dishes randomly pulled out 
              from the main a la carte menu here.  
             The 
              menu is seasonal, and each course complements the next. Hence, an 
              obviously summer feel to the dishes I sampled a few weeks ago. 
             A well-chilled beancurd, speckled with red bean, 
              made an apt and much-appreciated starter, given the sweltering weather. 
             A cold shower of the gentlest soya sauce dressing 
              was all it took to give the sweetish tofu an edge. 
             With our palates duly assuaged, we were ready for 
              more.  
            As if to break the calm that the starter gave, the 
              next dish was a warm fish soup, suffused with a dense, smoky aroma 
              (proof that top quality bonito blocks were used to make the stock). 
             In the soup, a slice of red snapper sits preciously 
              on a lock of noodles, looking like a bejewelled pin securing a chignon. 
             
            Slivers of seabass sashimi on a bed of shaved ice 
              followed, accompanied by a refreshing plum soya sauce. 
             This sequence of cold-hot-cold dishes, plus the degree 
              of aesthetics lavished on food presentation, ensured that our palates 
              were constantly piqued. 
             I also sampled a simmered dish of chilled yam, octopus, 
              pumpkin and eggplant (one taste, different textures); deep-fried 
              minced crabmeat wrapped in soya skin, with a little mound of grated 
              radish, spiked orangey with chilli paste, on the side; a trio of 
              sushi, the fish lightly seared and still raw in middle, polished 
              off with a comforting bowl of miso soup.  
            All were commendable in their own ways, but the dish 
              that drew most wows at my table was the Specialty Selection - actually 
              a composition of six different morsels on a platter. 
             I won't spoil the surprise by divulging more, save 
              to highlight one item - a cherry made of a slice of raw salmon wrapped 
              around a little ball of egg yolk. Kawai-i! ('cute' in Japanese.) 
             The Ladies' Kaiseki menu changes every month and 
              undergoes a full overhaul at the start of each new season. 
             I've been told that the upcoming autumn menu promises 
              to be another spectacular treat, so no prizes for guessing where 
              I'm headed the next time I have a craving for kaiseki.  
            Restaurant Suntory is located on the lobby level of 
              Inter-Continental Singapore, 80 Middle Road, Bugis Junction. 
             For reservations, call 64311064. Opening hours: Lunch 
              - noon to 2.30pm, dinner - 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Sunday.  
            
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